Zadun
As soon as we exited the terminal at Los Cabos we were welcomed by the irresistible warmth and humidity that accompanies the growing proximity to the earth's navel. Tufts of cottony clouds meandered through the bluebird sky.
Jorge, a man with bright smile and dressed in linen, greeted us outside and ushered us to a gleaming silver Escalade. The locomotive like chariot effortlessly cruised down impeccable stretches of highway that swayed and dipped along the back of the desert. Red dirt peered from beneath the edges of the unusually green flora — flush from fresh rain.
As we passed through San Jose Del Cabo, the influence of a thriving tourist economy was apparent. A sleepy but upscale little municipality sprinkled with gated communities of expatriates and shopping centers spiced with local culture and architecture. There was a welcoming western sensibility yet unique Mexican flavor.
At last the road plunged toward the sea. The flat roofs grew before us. Their long lines stretched toward the horizon. Zadun faced to the south, casting its gaze over the place where the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific meet. Warm turquoise waters of the Sea of Cortez mix with the cool deep blue of the mighty Pacific.
The first piece of the luxurious ensemble. Had Zadun been washed into the sea and I stood on the same patch of dirt, I would have been met with the same feeling of awe beauty, but in true architectural form designers had added something that creates another complimentary layer.
Within minutes a cool hibiscus libation was in hand and I was seen to my room… not a room… a casita… a villa… The Ritz would go as far to say, “home away from home.” The truly private retreat was framed with floor to ceiling sliding glass doors that disappeared into the walls. Outside a personal stone plunge pool, a private outdoor waterfall shower, and inside a free standing oval tub with bath salts and candles. The large king bed clad in ultra plush down, and don’t forget the Nespresso machine. All of these elements including the appointment of rich wood work and creamy slabs of limestone and marble all work in concert to envelope you.
This is where I met my Tosoani or "Dream Maker” which would look after all my needs. In this case mine was Nadim, and dream maker he was. For whatever reason on my second night I was having trouble sleeping and the next night after turndown service a little hand woven worry doll appeared on my night stand with a note… How did he know I wasn’t sleeping well the night before? I will never know. I followed the instructions on the little card, and say what you will, I slept very well that night. A little mysticism can go a long way.
On the first day I strolled down to Equis, the beachfront ceveceria and bar, for a little snack. Tony, a friendly and attentive barmen walked me through the drink menu filled with exotic cocktails and mock-tails that were concocted to refresh and lift the spirits. Sotol? Never heard of it but when mixed with Aperol, hibiscus, watermelon, lime, and mint. You get a delicious libation they call Yeneca. Paired with Peruvian ceviche it was a welcoming delight.
In truth most of my meals were taken at Barrio, Zadun’s main restaurant. There I had a chance to sample many items over the course of my stay. In the mornings enjoy an Americano with classics like eggs Benedict and huevos rancheros and in the evening indulging in five course taco tastings aptly named tocology, succulent chicken ala brassa, and filet mignon served over pureed cauliflower. There wasn’t one thing I tried that I didn’t like, but as much as I like Barrio you can’t talk Zadun with talking about Candil a towering glass and steel structure that serves as the center piece of the entire resort.
Like the Kabba I circled it for days before I made my pilgrimage. Inside I found a small horse shoe bar with a glowing column of agave distillates — tequila, mescal, sotol, among others. Luis walked me through a tasting, educating me on the nuances of each variety. Some tequila rich with chocolate notes from their days growing alongside cocoa plants and other wild varieties that could almost passed for earthy vodka. Agave, the seemingly one trick pony flowered into a mosaic. If you don’t like agave well… then you don’t know agave.
Not all of our time was spent at Zadun, which features bespoke outings. We embarked on an excursion into the warm waters of the Sea of Cortez. Aptly named, “The Aquarium of the Sea’s,” by Jacque Cousteau because of its staggering biodiversity. Our destination Isla De Spiritu Santo. We strolled along a dreamy sand bar in one of the many coves and watched as sea turtles flew through the shallows. Off shore schools of rays leapt into the air in an effort to attract mates with the most impressive splash. We even picked up a pod of dolphins. Their seamless bodies sliding in and out of the water displaced water at the bow of the boat. They see you, and as we laughed and cheered they would in turn show off with twirls and leaps. Amazing creatures.
The dolphins a fitting goodbye, but like with any dream state, I eventually awoke, and the day came when I enjoyed my last cup of coffee, my last soothing cascade in the outdoor shower, my last breakfast, and my last warm greeting from Hadim. I walked the grounds waiting for my silver bullet to usher me back to reality. The sun, high in the sky, cast sharp shadows. I reveled in the heat of the day, and it must have shown because Nadim appeared with two cool eucalyptus towels and a cold bottle of water. His last gesture, and one of the most important pieces of luxury… service. The art of anticipating people’s needs.
Zadun is an impressive place, and The Ritz Carton has curated an an experience that truly envelopes their guests at every level from the macro to the micro. So next time you say you are living the dream… think again.
